Mating a female Siberian Husky

A brief Insight .....  The first signs that a female has come into season -or- heat is a thin discharge which will increase in color and discharge rate, after about 10 - 16 days the discharge will become clearer (yellowish). Simultaneously, there is a swelling of the vulva, (the exterior portion of the female’s re productive tract). At this stage the male dog will become extremely interested in the female, if the female is ready she will stand for the dog and mating may occur.

Pup calendar will, hopefully calculate a few of those important dates for breeders who plan their litters. Text book accounts of when a bitches come into season may not always be correct as we are dealing with nature. Some bitches will come into season within the ten days up to day twenty five (If your bitch has reached the twenty fifth day - I think you’ve missed the boat).

Gestation period is 63-65 days

How much weight can a Siberian Husky pull

The breed was quick and could master most if not every terrain. Their strength would lie in numbers when packs would work as a team in pulling sleds and covering great distances with minimal need of food. By 1908, the dog was introduced in Alaska word had gotten loose that there was a superior type of sled dog. In 1909, Siberian Huskies made its debut in the All Alaska Sweepstake Race. It is said that the average weight a Husky can pull on its own would be equivalent to its own weight. So if the dog weighed 25 kg it should have the strength to pull approximately 25 kg.

How to train your Siberian Husky

The narrow line between training and abuse

Many dog owners think that their Husky is the smartest in the world. There’s no problem with this, up to certain a point. This point is when the owner expects as much from the dog as if it really was the most intelligent creature the world has ever seen. They expect them to learn everything right away, whereas dogs need time to learn things, the same way as we, humans do. Just in a different way  Well, the point is, that training requires time and patience. It can be different for all dogs, but we do have to keep this in mind and take the time and energy to train our Siberian Husky.

Another common mistake (also because of the lack of patience) is to give up. Many people think that they have already tried everything but the dog doesn’t want to learn. In this case, maybe the methods are not the best, or they need more time. There are no dogs who wouldn’t be able to learn at least a few commands. Giving up is never a solution. 

So, if we have the time and the patience we can avoid the next, and maybe the biggest mistake: to turn training into abuse. Probably you expect me to tell you where this line is. I can’t. This is something the owner should know. Training is all about communication. If you know your Husky, if you pay attention to him, you see how he feels. Unfortunately many dog owners don’t have this ability, because they only keep pets for entertainment, while a dog is much more than that.

Going back to training, a very important rule is that your goal should be that your Husky obeys to commands because he is keen to do so. NOT BECAUSE HE IS AFRAID. Many-many owners forget about this, and feel the training successful, but actually they are making their dog unhappy. How can someone live happily in fear? No way. These owners are only keeping a dog to make themselves happy, and don’t feel the responsibility they should.

So the point is, that ‘positive training’ is possible. Actually, that’s the only way.

The first difficulties most Siberian Husky owners face is potty training their puppy. As with general training, the main principles remain the same: a positive, rewarding approach and a lot of patience is required. There are, however a few tips and tricks that will make the whole process faster and easier for both puppy and owner.

Husky Health

 They are remarkably healthy dogs with few genetic issues Hereditary, or juvenile cataracts (different from non-hereditary cataracts affecting elderly dogs) are the most common, followed by followed by corneal dystrophy, and progressive retinal atrophy.

No breed of dog is totally free from inheritable genetic defects, but few breeds have had the good fortune of the Siberian Husky. Their average lifespan of a Siberian Husky is 10 to 14 years. Not only is the individual dog generally healthy and of good temperament, but throughout the years there hasn’t been a lot of genetic issues.  The Husky generally only has two areas of problems when it comes to its health. These are:

Siberian Husky

1. Canine hip dysplasia: Hip dysplasia is an abnormality of the hip joint in which the head of the thighbone (femur) does not fit properly into its pelvic joint socket. This condition is not present at birth but develops during the first two years of the dog’s life. It is often progressive and causing inflammation, pain, and arthritis of the affected hip. It is aggravated by strenuous exercise as well as sitting up, lying down, or climbing stairs. The Siberian Husky has been one of the few breeds that had a dramatic decrease in the incidence of hip dysplasia from 1980 through 1995

2. Inheritable eye disease: These include: juvenile cataracts, corneal dystrophy, and progressive retinal atrophy. All of these are hereditary. Of the three major eye diseases of the Siberian Husky, hereditary cataracts are the most common, followed by corneal dystrophy, and progressive retinal atrophy. . The breed is at risk for three inherited eye defects that can occur in any eye colour.

Special care and regular visits to the vet, can ensure that your Husky is getting treatment to hopefully prolong occurences or treat the symptoms. Do bear in mind, that apart from these diseases, the Husky is a generally healthy breed compared to other dog breeds!

Feeding a Husky

Food for your Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute or Sled Dog

The food that we feed to our pets has significant consequences for their happiness and well-being. Siberian huskies, Alaskan malamutes and other sled dogs can be fussy eaters. They are often sensitive to some of the ingredients found in pet foods, particularly the many of the cheaper, more widely-available brands. Fortunately, there are a wide variety of dog foods available today, some of which seem to suit huskies and other sled dogs particularly well.

The choice of diets and feeding plans available, together with the sensitive digestion systems of many huskies and sled dogs, can make finding a suitable diet solution seem like a daunting task.

Don’t worry! Feeding your husky, malamute or sled dog can quickly become very simple. The key points to remember are;

* Be aware of the main ‘problem causing’ ingredients found in some commercial dog food.

* Figure out the right amount of food to feed your dog (sled dogs generally need less food than other dogs their size)

* Change foods GRADUALLY. Sudden changes to diet usually lead to upset tummies.

* Stick to a set feeding routine.

Feeding Options

Generally speaking, most husky and sled dog owners feed either Kibble or Raw Diets, or a combination of the two.

Kibble is a ready made food that provide all the basic nutrients your dogs needs. Feeding Kibble is often the simplest, least time consuming option. It also involves less mess, storage space etc.

Another alternative is to feed a

Raw Diet. Some owners suggest that raw diets significantly improve the overall health of their dogs. There is no doubt a raw diet provides more variety for your dog, and many of the foods involved, such as raw meaty bones, provide entertainment as dogs chew away on them happily for hours.

Feeding a Raw Diet requires some initial research into the nutritional needs of your dog, and sourcing food suppliers takes time and patience. You will probably also need to acquire an additional fridge and/or freezer in order to store food, and may want to designate an area in your kitchen or utility room specifically for meal preparation as much raw meat is involved.

Although feeding a Raw Diet may seem a daunting and complicated prospect, in reality, once you have done a bit of initial research, it does become very easy to manage and is very often cheaper than feeding kibble. Indeed, for many owners the sourcing and preparation of raw food is an interesting and satisfying task, particularly once they see their dog’s enthusiastic reaction to the foods on offer.

Combining Raw and Complete Foods

Many husky and sled dog owners feed both Raw and Complete foods at different times, depending on circumstance, availability and time constraints. This is perfectly acceptable, although it is not recommended that you feed both types of food at the same meal. Kibble and raw foods are digested at different rates. Feeding both raw food and kibble at the same meal may increase the stress on the digestive system, and health problems – specifically an increased risk of bloat (gastric torsion) may occur.

For this reason, it is best to separate raw foods and kibble into different meals. Some owners choose to feed kibble in the morning and raw food later in the day, or they may feed raw food for the most part and kibble if travelling with their huskies or attending rallies or shows.

Over-Feeding Huskies and Sled Dogs

Huskies and sled dogs generally require a lot less food than other breeds of dog. Sled dogs evolved in harsh and unforgiving northern environments where food was scarce, and as a result their bodies adapted to process food very efficiently. Huskies and sled dogs can extract a relatively high percentage of the available energy and nutrients from their food compared to other breeds. It is often the case that the feeding instructions provided by food manufacturers will suggest more food than is necessary for a husky or sled dog, as instructions are not generally breed-specific. 

Feeding your husky or sled dog too soon before or after exercise is to be avoided. It can not only be uncomfortable for your husky to exercise on a full stomach, but feeding too close to physical exertion has been linked to one of the most serious and life-threatening medical emergencies sled dogs can incur; ‘bloat’ or gastric torsion. It is recommended that you wait AT LEAST 30 minutes (longer if at all possible) after exercise before feeding. This gives the dog’s body a chance to settle down and cool off before having to deal with the digestive process. You should also wait AT LEAST 2 hours after a meal before you exercise your husky or sled dog, longer if possible, especially if you are exercising the dog vigorously (i.e. if you are ‘working’ your husky on a rig or scooter).

The list below is for SOURCE information only 

the best vitamin and mineral sources to feed an Siberian Husky

Vitamin & Best Source

Vitamin A Palmitate

Vitamin B-1 Thiamine Hcl & Yeast

Vitamin B-2 Riboflavin & Yeast

Vitamin B-6 Pyridoxine Hcl & Yeast

Vitamin B-12 Cyanocobalamin & Yeast

Vitamin D D-activated Sterol

Vitamin E dl-alpha tocopherol acetate

Niacinamide

Biotin

Folic Acid

d-Calcium Pantothenate

Para Amino Benzoic Acid

Mineral & Best Source

Calcium Bone Meal

Copper Gluconate

Iodine Potassium Iodide

Iron Ferrous Sulfate

Magnesium Magnesium-Sulfate

Manganese Manganese-Oxide

Phosphorus Bone Meal

Potassium Potassium-Gluconate Zinc Zinc-Sulfate

Please do not feed this breed of dog any supplemental vitamin C (ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate or ascorbal palmitate) because of the kidney and liver damage it can do.

Eyes of the Siberian Husky

Not necessarily the eyes of the siberian husky should be blue! The eyes of the Siberian Husky can be very colorful… It can be not only blue, but also brown or amber, or both.. Some Huskies have one brown and one blue eye, or two different blues of browns. They can even have “parti-colored” eyes, which means that one eye is half blue and half brown.

Husky Hair

Siberians are clean, odorless dogs. Their gorgeous coats need no trimming, shaping or thinning. Twice a year, they'll shed or "blow" their undercoats and hair will fall out in clumps. Frequent brushing is essential during these intense shedding periods, which can last three weeks or more. For the rest of the year, once a week brushings are needed to remove dead hair and maintain a shiny coat. Baths are recommended once or twice a year.

History

The Siberian Husky, Samoyed, and Alaskan Malamute are all breeds directly descended from the original "sled dog." Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog as can be seen with the Alaskan Malamute.

In this breed of canine, the word "husky" derives from Inuit tribes called "huskies", named by Caucasians who made early expeditions into their lands. The word "Siberian" in this breed's name is derived from Siberia itself, because it is thought that Eskimo or sled dogs were used to cross the land bridge of the Bering Straight on the way into, or out of, Alaska, though this theory is continuously disputed by scholars. Breeds descending from the Eskimo dog were once found throughout the Northern Hemisphere from Siberia to Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Labrador, and Baffin Island.

Character

An active, energetic and resilient breed whose ancestors came from the extremely cold and harsh environment of the Siberian Arctic and were bred by the Chukchi of Northeastern Asia, it was imported into Alaska during the Nome Gold Rush and spread from there into the United States and Canada, initially as a sled dog. It rapidly acquired the status of a family pet and a show-dog.

Dogsled racing

Siberian Huskies are still used occasionally as sled dogs in dogsled racing but have been widely replaced by the more popular Alaskan Husky and hound-type cross-breeds that are specially bred and selected for speed and have less heavy coats. Freight Siberian Huskieswere selectively bred to pull a medium load over long distances at a medium pace, and simply can't keep up with their faster counterparts. Siberians are still popular in races restricted to pure-breds and are faster than other pure sled dog breeds such as the Samoyed and the slower but much stronger Alaskan Malamute. Today the breed tends to divide along lines of "racing" Siberians versus "show" Siberians.

Apart from dog sled racing -- they are very popular for recreational mushing and are also used for skijoring (one to three dogs pulling a skier) and European ski-pulka. A few owners use them for dog-packing and hiking. They have also seen use as therapy dogs.

Behavior

The Siberian Husky has been described as a behavioural representative of the domestic dog's forebear, the wolf. It exhibits a wide range of the ancestor type's behaviours. They are frequently known to howl rather than bark. Hyperactivity displaying as an over-active hunting drive, a characteristic of kennelled dogs, is often noticeable in dogs released from their captive environment for exercise - a behaviour welcome in hunting dogs but not in the family pet. The frequency of kennelled Siberian Huskies, especially for racing purposes, is rather high, as attributed through the history of the breed in North America. Fifteen-minute obedience training classes will serve well for Siberian Huskies, as will daily training.

What's he digging for?

Huskies dig holes under fences to escape but they also dig because digging is fun. Siberian Huskies have a natural tendency to dig. They dig holes, they might even dig craters. It's the nature of the breed to dig holes to lie in. They've also been known to dig up plants and bushes, so when fencing in an area for Huskies to run and play, Husky owners might want to fence them out of flower beds, away from gardens and prized shrubs. Digging can be a very difficult problem to solve. Some owners overcome the problem of the nuisance digging by providing a spot in the yard - a sand box type area - where their dog is allowed and encouraged to dig.

Copper/Red - SIberian husky

Perhaps the most shade variation can be seen in the coats of Red & white Siberians.

Red & white Siberians always have liver points. Their undercoat can be copper, light red, or cream. Dilution factors can fade the coloring from dark to light across the body. Can be chocolate colored, to almost white.

An "orange" copper Siberian allows more than than red. The result is a red Siberian with a very light coat.

A "chocolate" copper (also called chocolate red) Siberian has a tone with full depth of color. A brown or liver undercoat is present. This is the darkest possible red coloration.

A "red" copper Siberian allows more red than tan. This brings out a bright color, and can sometimes give off an orange hue.

Agouti (Wolf-like)

Agouti colored Siberians are equally rare. It is also called "wild coloring". Agouti siberians usually have special masks and markings. White markings are always cream. The mask is always dark, very heavy. (Dirty faced). Pigment extends far down on the dog's body. No dilution is present. Undercoat of agouti Siberians is charcoal. The outer coat can be a mixture of black, tan, red, or grey. The usual coloring is black on the root and tip of the hair, with red or tan in the middle. Points are black. Sometimes mistaken for sable or wolf grey. An agouti Siberian should look almost exactly like a wolf in coloring.

Pure White

Pure white is perhaps the rarest coat color of Siberians. A white Siberian can have liver or black points(the color of the nose and skin around the eyes). This color, or lack thereof, is a result of the complete restriction of color pigments and extension of white over the dog's entire body. Undercoat is silver or white.

The 3 Greys

Siberian coats can come is three shades of grey. These are: Wolf Grey, Silver, and Medium/Dark Grey.

Wolf Grey is an allowance of the agouti gene which gives off a warm shade of grey with beige, tan, or red behind the ears, on the legs, and the back. Undercoat is beige. Pigment is restricted per individual hair. This coat gives off a rich color with lots of depth. Not to be confused to sable coated Siberians.

Silver is the complete opposite of a wolf grey. There is a complete restriction of the agouti gene. The coat comes off with a silvery or blue tone. There is no red, tan, or beige. The silver Siberian's undercoat is white. Black can often tip the hair. When a dilution factor is present the shade of silver can become even more blue, with pigment being slate colored.

Medium/Dark Grey is the most common of the grey colorings. It allows red or tan tones, but not to the fullest depth. The richness of the red or tan is reduced but not completely cut out. Undercoat is a mixture of beige and silver.

Black & White - Siberian Husky

The undercoat of a black & white Siberian may be white, charcoal, beige, or a mixture of these three. The top coat can be a range from jet black, to a dilution known as a "salt & pepper", making the dog look almost grey. The dilution also gives the coat depth of color. A red tint is also allowed to the black, and sometimes gives the dog a "grizzled" look. This red hue is quite rare, and develope when a black dog is exposed to the sun for long periods of time. When blowing the coat, a black Siberian can appear grey.

Mistakes that new breeders make!

As the dogs grow up they need a chewing toys! The breeders will see this but it will be to late because they will start chewing the mebel that you have at home! Chewing toys are necessary not just for the mebel 'cause of their teeth. With enought chewing toys the huskies teeth will be healthy and stronger.

Is a Siberian Husky a good choise for me ?

If you would like to have an affectionate, friendly, and strong dog that is eager to work with you even in the coldest weather, then the Siberian Husky is the best breed for you. These dogs are alert and eager to please their master. They show no fear of strangers, therefore they can become good watchdogs or guardian dogs. They like other dogs around them, especially other Huskies. On the other hand, they usually do not get on well with other non-canine pets in the family, as their predatory instinct makes them dangerous for smaller animals. The Siberian Husky gets on extremely well with children, even with smaller ones. These dogs do their best on a large, fenced yard and they require daily walking or jogging. They are not recommended for apartment living.

The coat of this dog is a medium, dense and coarse double coat that requires daily brushingas this breed is a constant shedder. They are prone to health issues like hip dysplasia, skin allergies and cataracts.

Training the Siberian Husky is easy, as this dog is very clever, but they have a mind on their own so the trainer must always be consistent, firm and patient. They may be difficult to housebreak, therefore they require early socialization and obedience training.

All in all, the Siberian Husky is the perfect dog for families living in colder climates in a large house with a yard.

I hope this few sentences will help you decide whether the Siberian Husky is the best breed for you and for your family.

All in all, the Siberian Husky is the perfect dog for families living in colder climates in a large house with a yard.

I hope this few sentences will help you decide whether the Siberian Husky is the best breed for you and for your family.